Perched at 2,100 meters in Georgia’s Greater Caucasus mountains, Ushguli is a community of four medieval villages where stone defensive towers have stood for a thousand years and the snow-capped summit of Mount Shkhara (5,193m) fills the horizon. It’s remote, it’s stunning, and thanks to a major road upgrade completed in 2024, it’s now easier to reach than ever.
About Ushguli
The name Ushguli translates to “fearless heart,” and the history backs it up. This is a settlement that has never been conquered. The Svan people have lived in these mountains for at least 5,000 years, and when Mongol invasions devastated the rest of Georgia in the 13th century, the invaders never made it this far. Georgian nobility sent their most precious treasures here for safekeeping: icons, manuscripts, gold and silver religious objects. Many remain in Svaneti’s churches and museums today.
The Towers of Ushguli
The iconic stone towers were built primarily between the 9th and 12th centuries.
Rising up to 25 meters tall with walls over a meter thick, they served as defensive refuges, watchtowers, and secure storage.
Over 200 towers still stand in Chazhashi village alone, earning UNESCO World Heritage status in 1996.
The Svans maintain their own distinct culture and language, classified as endangered by UNESCO with only about 15,000 to 30,000 speakers remaining. Their religious festivals blend Orthodox Christianity with older pre-Christian traditions, featuring torch processions, communal bonfires, and rituals that have continued for centuries. The polyphonic singing tradition here is so remarkable that a Georgian song was included on the Voyager Golden Record sent into space in 1977.
Things to Do
The Shkhara Glacier hike is the main draw. The trail covers 14 to 16 kilometers round trip, taking 5 to 7 hours at a moderate pace. You follow a jeep road through the valley with Mount Shkhara growing larger with every step, passing grazing horses and a small café at the halfway point. The route is straightforward and doesn’t require a guide, though sturdy footwear and rain gear are essential. Stay well back from the glacier face due to falling ice.
The Lamaria Church sits on a hilltop at the edge of Zhibiani village, dating to the 9th or 10th century. The interior contains frescoes spanning several centuries, and unlike most Georgian churches, photography is allowed inside. The real draw is the location: the church framed against Mount Shkhara is one of the most photographed scenes in the Caucasus. Entry is free.
The Mestia to Ushguli Trek
One of Europe’s best mountain walks covering 60 kilometers over 4 days.
The route crosses passes reaching 3,000 meters with guesthouses (40 to 80 GEL with meals) at each stage.
Part of the Transcaucasian Trail network with well-marked paths throughout.
