Bhutan from East to West

Into Bhutan and up into the hills, a drive of four to five hours. On the way, a stop at the Chokyi Gyatso Institute at Dewathang, a Buddhist college where there is time to talk with some of the senior monks.

On to Trashigang, the largest town in the east, for three nights.

A morning in Radhi, a village northeast of Trashigang known for its fragrant rice and its raw silk, woven by hand in many of the houses. Time to walk through the village, then a picnic lunch.

In the afternoon, Trashigang Dzong, the fortress on the spur above the river.

A day trip north. On the way, Gomphu Kora, a temple built around a cave where Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated, and your guide tells the stories tied to the rock.

Then Trashiyangtse and Chorten Kora, a great white stupa by the river and one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites in Bhutan. Lunch in Trashiyangtse, and back to Trashigang for the night.

A short drive of under three hours to Mongar. In the afternoon, Mongar Dzong, built in 1930 in the traditional way, without nails or drawn plans, and still home to the district administration and monk body. The evening is free to walk around the town.

A day trip to Lhuentse, one of Bhutan's most isolated districts, where villages sit scattered along the ridgetops. The women of the Kurtoe region here are famous for their weaving, and some of the finest textiles in the country come from these valleys.

A visit to Lhuentse Dzong, and lunch along the way, before heading back to Mongar.

A long day, and one of the most beautiful drives in the Himalaya. The road climbs over Thrumshing La at around 3,750 meters, the old boundary between eastern and central Bhutan, through some of the country's richest forest.

Down the far side to the village of Ura, then on to Jakar in the Bumthang valleys. Around five and a half to six hours on the road.

Bumthang holds many of Bhutan's oldest and most important temples. The day starts at Jambay Lhakhang, said to be one of 108 temples built in a single day in the 7th century by the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo, and one of only two in Bhutan, with Kyichu Lhakhang in Paro.

Then Kurjey Lhakhang, three temples ringed by a wall of 108 small stupas, the oldest built around a cave holding a rock said to bear the body print of Guru Rinpoche. A cooking class at a local farmhouse, followed by lunch, then Tamshing, founded in 1501 by the saint Pema Lingpa. The day ends in Chamkhar, the small town at the heart of the valley.

An all-day hike of moderate difficulty through pine, oak and juniper forest to Tharpaling Monastery, founded in the 14th century by the scholar Longchen Rabjam, whose stone throne is still kept there. The halls hold old wall paintings, and the views stretch across the Chamkhar valley to the Himalaya.

Picnic lunch at the monastery, then a vehicle takes you back down to the hotel.

West out of Bumthang to Trongsa, where the watchtower above the town, now a museum, tells the story of the dzong below and its place in Bhutan's history. Then Trongsa Dzong itself, one of the largest and most impressive fortresses in the country.

Lunch at Chendebji Chorten, a stupa built in the Nepali style, then on to Punakha, around five and a half to six hours on the road in all.

A morning walk through the rice fields up to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, with views over the whole valley. Then Punakha Dzong, built in 1637 where two rivers meet, and one of the most beautiful buildings in Bhutan.

After lunch, an easy 30-minute walk through rice paddies and Yuwakha village to Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of the Divine Madman. In the evening, a visit to a private family temple to see its wall paintings, then a try at archery, Bhutan's national sport, with your guide.

A drive of under three hours to Thimphu, the capital. First the Memorial Chorten, built in memory of the third king and busy with people walking around it all day.

After lunch, Changangkha Lhakhang above the town, the giant Buddha statue at Buddha Point, and the craft bazaar.

An easy to moderate hike from Sangaygang through pine and oak forest to Wangditse Monastery, with views over the Thimphu valley, the royal palace, Tashichho Dzong and the parliament building. On the way, the Takin reserve, home to Bhutan's national animal.

After lunch, a hands-on painting workshop at the art school, then the Centenary Farmers' Market, where growers from the surrounding valleys sell their produce.

West to the Haa Valley, one of the most unspoiled corners of Bhutan, with farmhouses painted in bright patterns among fields of millet, barley and potatoes. A visit to a 100-year-old family farmhouse to see how people live in the remote valleys, and lunch at a farmhouse.

In the afternoon, Chundu Lhakhang at Hatey village, a temple tied to the story of the valley, then over the Chele La at 3,988 meters to Paro, around two hours. On a clear day there are views of Jomolhari.

The hike up to Taktsang, the Tiger's Nest, the monastery that clings to a cliff high above the Paro valley and one of the most sacred places in Bhutan. The trail climbs past fields and prayer wheels turned by a stream to a ridge hung with prayer flags, and on to the cafeteria at around 2,800 meters, facing the monastery across the gorge.

From there it is a steep climb of about a mile to the monastery itself, or you can rest at the cafeteria and enjoy the view. Lunch is a Bhutanese buffet at the cafeteria. A farewell evening in Paro.

After breakfast, the drive to Paro airport for your flight home.