Bhutan

Cliffside monasteries, crane valleys and fortresses where rivers meet

Country Overview

Bhutan

Cliffside monasteries, crane valleys and fortresses where rivers meet

Capital
Thimphu
Language
Dzongkha, English
Currency
Bhutanese Ngultrum (BTN)
Population
780,000

Bhutan climbs from subtropical forest on the edge of the Indian plains to glaciers on the Tibetan border in less than two hundred kilometres. Between the two lie the deep river valleys where most Bhutanese live, each watched over by a dzong, the fortress-monasteries that have housed both government and monks since the seventeenth century. The kingdom stayed closed to outsiders until 1974, still measures its progress by Gross National Happiness, and writes into its constitution that at least sixty per cent of the land must stay forested for all time. Tigers range from the lowland jungle to the alpine meadows, black-necked cranes fly over the Himalaya each winter to roost at Phobjikha, and in the far east Brokpa herders still move their yaks between Merak and Sakteng.

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Things to Do in Bhutan

Thirty experiences across the kingdom, grouped by what draws you there.

Dzongs, Temples and Monasteries

  • Climb to Tiger's Nest

    Paro Taktsang clings to a cliff about 900 metres above the valley floor, where Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated in the eighth century. The walk up through pine forest takes most of a morning.

  • Punakha Dzong

    Built in 1637 where the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers meet, Punakha Dzong is the finest of Bhutan's fortresses and the winter home of the central monk body. In spring the jacarandas flower purple.

  • The Dzongs of Paro and Trongsa

    Rinpung Dzong in Paro and Trongsa Dzong, once the seat of the Wangchuck kings, show how the dzongs still work: district offices on one side of the courtyard, monks on the other.

  • The Sacred Valleys of Bumthang

    Bumthang holds some of Bhutan's oldest temples: Jambay Lhakhang, said to date from the seventh century, Kurjey, where Guru Rinpoche left his body print in rock, and Tamshing, founded by Pema Lingpa.

  • The Burning Lake

    At Membartsho in the Tang valley, the treasure-revealer Pema Lingpa is said to have dived into the river holding a lamp and returned with sacred texts, the lamp still alight. Pilgrims leave butter lamps above the water.

Festivals and Living Culture

  • Tshechu Festivals

    Masked dances in the dzong courtyards honour Guru Rinpoche over several days, and whole valleys turn out in their finest gho and kira. At Paro and Thimphu a giant thangka is unrolled at dawn on the final morning.

  • Watch the National Sport

    Archery is played over 145 metres, with teams singing, dancing and heckling their opponents between shots. Matches run most weekends, and anyone can stand at the edge of the field and watch.

  • The Black-Necked Crane Festival

    Every November the children of Phobjikha dance as cranes in the courtyard of Gangtey Goenpa to welcome the birds back for the winter, alongside masked dances and local songs.

  • Farmhouse Stays and Hot Stone Baths

    Stay with a farming family in a traditional rammed-earth house, eat red rice by the stove, and soak in a dotsho, a wooden tub heated with river stones and medicinal herbs.

  • The Thirteen Traditional Arts

    Watch students learn painting, woodcarving, sculpture and embroidery at the Institute for Zorig Chusum in Thimphu, the school that keeps Bhutan's thirteen traditional arts alive.

Trekking and Mountains

  • The Druk Path

    The classic first trek runs between Paro and Thimphu along ridges above 4,000 metres, past high lakes and with views north to the Himalaya on clear mornings. Four to six days on foot.

  • Jomolhari Base Camp

    Walk up the Paro valley to the foot of Jomolhari, a 7,326-metre peak sacred to the Bhutanese, past yak herders' camps and the hilltop fort at Lingshi. Blue sheep graze the slopes above camp.

  • The Snowman Trek

    Close to a month in the remote north, crossing eleven passes, many above 5,000 metres, to the glacial lakes of Lunana. It is one of the hardest treks in the Himalaya and one of the least walked.

  • Dagala Thousand Lakes

    A short trek south of Thimphu over open ridges scattered with alpine lakes, with yak herders in summer and views across the Himalaya to Gangkhar Puensum on clear days.

  • Over the High Passes

    Chele La, the highest road pass in the west at nearly 4,000 metres, looks straight across to Jomolhari. Further east, Dochula's 108 chortens and the rhododendron forests of Thrumshing La break the long drives.

Wildlife and Birds

  • Watch Black-Necked Cranes

    From November to February, black-necked cranes roost in the wetlands of Phobjikha and Bumdeling after crossing the Himalaya from Tibet. Their numbers in Bhutan have nearly doubled since the first count in 1987.

  • Meet the Takin

    The takin, Bhutan's national animal, is a heavy, shaggy relative of the goat. See them at the preserve above Thimphu, or in the wild along the high routes of Jigme Dorji National Park.

  • Golden Langurs

    The golden langur lives only in central Bhutan and neighbouring Assam. Troops are often seen from the road between Trongsa and Zhemgang, feeding in the treetops above the Mangde Chhu.

  • Red Pandas and Spring Birding

    The forests around Thrumshing La are among the best birding routes in the Himalaya, with satyr tragopan, Himalayan monal and rufous-necked hornbill. Red pandas feed in the bamboo here in spring.

  • Tiger Country

    Bhutan's tiger population has grown by more than a quarter in a decade, and its tigers range from the southern jungle to alpine meadows. Sightings are rare, but Royal Manas and the south are where they live.

Valleys, Villages and Crafts

  • The Haa Valley

    One of the last western valleys opened to visitors, Haa has farmhouse stays, the white and black temples of Lhakhang Karpo and Lhakhang Nagpo, and a quiet road over Chele La from Paro.

  • The Gangtey Nature Trail

    Walk down through pine forest and dwarf bamboo to the edge of the crane wetlands at Phobjikha, then visit Gangtey Goenpa, the seventeenth-century monastery on the ridge above the valley.

  • Bhutan's Textiles

    Bhutanese weaving is among the finest in Asia. See the national collection at the Textile Museum in Thimphu, then the backstrap looms of the east, where every valley has its own patterns.

  • Ura Village

    Ura is a cobbled highland village at the head of a wide valley in Bumthang, known for its spring Yakchoe festival and for the matsutake mushrooms its families gather in August.

  • The Craftsmen of Trashiyangtse

    Trashiyangtse is known for wooden bowls turned from maple burls and for its school of traditional arts. Nearby, the white Chorten Kora stands beside the river, modelled on the great stupa of Boudhanath.

Food and Drink

  • Ema Datshi

    In Bhutan chillies are a vegetable, not a seasoning. Ema datshi, chillies cooked in soft cheese, comes to almost every meal alongside Bhutanese red rice.

  • Buckwheat Country

    Bumthang is too high for rice, so the valley cooks with buckwheat: puta noodles and khuli pancakes, with local cheese and honey, and Red Panda beer from the brewery in Jakar.

  • Butter Tea and Ara

    Suja, salted butter tea, is offered in every home and monastery. In the villages you will also be poured ara, a spirit distilled from rice, wheat or maize, sometimes warmed with butter and egg.

  • The Centenary Farmers' Market

    Thimphu's weekend market fills with chillies, mushrooms, fern shoots, river weed and strings of dried yak cheese. It is the best place in the country to see what Bhutan grows.

  • Cook in a Farmhouse Kitchen

    Learn to make ema datshi, kewa datshi and buckwheat dumplings with a farming family, starting with vegetables from their own fields and finishing at their table.

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Explore Destinations

Where to Go in Bhutan

Locations

Bumthang
1 / 7

Bumthang

Bumthang is four high valleys in the centre of Bhutan, Chhoekhor, Tang, Chhume and Ura, strung along cold rivers at around 2,600 metres and above. This is where Guru Rinpoche left the print of…

Bumthang
Bumthang in Bhutan

Bumthang Dzongkhag, Central Bhutan

Bumthang

Bumthang is four high valleys in the centre of Bhutan, Chhoekhor, Tang, Chhume and Ura, strung along cold rivers at around 2,600 metres and above. This is where Guru Rinpoche left the print of…

Haa Valley
Haa Valley in Bhutan

Haa Dzongkhag, Western Bhutan

Haa Valley

Over Chele La, at 3,988 metres the highest road pass in Bhutan, lies a narrow alpine valley that foreign visitors were not allowed to enter until 2002. Haa sits at around 2,700 metres beneath…

Paro Valley
Paro Valley in Bhutan

Paro Dzongkhag, Western Bhutan

Paro Valley

Almost every journey to Bhutan begins in Paro, with a landing between forested ridges into a valley of rice terraces, apple orchards and big painted farmhouses. For centuries this was the country's western door,…

Phobjikha Valley
Phobjikha Valley in Bhutan

Wangdue Phodrang Dzongkhag, Central Bhutan

Phobjikha Valley

Phobjikha is a wide glacial valley at around 2,900 metres on the eastern side of the Black Mountains, its floor a marsh of dwarf bamboo threaded by a slow river. Each year in late…

Punakha
Punakha in Bhutan

Punakha Dzongkhag, Western Bhutan

Punakha

Over Dochula and down through rhododendron forest, the road drops nearly two thousand metres into a warm valley of rice terraces and orange trees. Here the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu, the male and…

Thimphu
Thimphu in Bhutan

Thimphu Dzongkhag, Western Bhutan

Thimphu

Thimphu runs long and narrow along the Wang Chhu, a capital of well over a hundred thousand people at around 2,300 metres, where a white-gloved policeman still directs traffic at the main junction because…

Tiger's Nest Monastery
Tiger's Nest Monastery in Bhutan

Paro Taktsang, Paro Valley

Tiger's Nest Monastery

Paro Taktsang clings to a sheer cliff some 900 metres above the Paro valley, a cluster of whitewashed temples under gold roofs that seems to grow straight out of the rock. Bhutanese tradition holds…

Plan Your Journey

When to Go to Bhutan

Every season reveals a different face of the country. Here’s how to find yours.

October

Peak

7 places to go in October

Peak Great Good Shoulder Off-season

From the Journal

Stories from Bhutan

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