Bhutan's Druk Path Trek

A morning hike up to Taktsang, the Tiger's Nest, the monastery that clings to a cliff 900 meters above the Paro valley and one of the most sacred places in Bhutan. Legend says Guru Rinpoche flew here on the back of a tigress. The trail climbs through pine forest and prayer flags to a viewpoint facing the monastery, then on to the temple itself at around 3,120 meters. It is the ideal warm-up for the trek.

Lunch at the cafeteria partway down. In the afternoon, Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan's oldest temples, said to date to the 7th century, and Drukgyel Dzong, the fortress at the head of the valley built in 1649 to mark victory over invading Tibetan armies.

The trek begins just above Paro, near the National Museum, with a steady climb through blue pine and fir forest. Pack animals carry the gear, so you only need a day pack. The trail gains height quickly at first, then eases as you near the ridge.

Camp is just below Jele Dzong, a small fortress, now partly in ruins, on the ridge at around 3,480 meters, with a temple holding a statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. On a clear afternoon the whole Paro valley spreads out below, with snow peaks behind. Around 8 km and four hours, the steepest climb of the trek.

An hour and a half of climbing to start, then easier walking along the ridge through thick forest of fir and rhododendron, which bursts into flower in spring. On clear days Jomolhari, at 7,326 meters, and the surrounding peaks come into view through gaps in the trees.

Listen for the calls of the Himalayan monal, Bhutan's brilliantly colored pheasant, in the forest, and look out for yak herders' huts in the clearings. Camp is at Jangchulakha, around 3,770 meters. Around 10 km and four to five hours.

The trail follows the open ridge with wide views over mountains and valleys on both sides. On a clear day the highlight is Jichu Drake, at around 6,989 meters, the peak said to be the home of Paro's protective deity, rising above everything to the north.

The path drops gently to camp beside Jimilang Tsho, the Sand Ox Lake, at around 3,880 meters. The lake is known for its giant trout, and the evening light on the water and the peaks is one of the best of the trek. Around 11 km and five hours.

Through dwarf rhododendron and juniper and past the dark water of Janye Tsho. Yak herders graze their animals in this high country in summer and autumn, and you may pass their camps and black tents and see how they live, moving with the herds between pastures.

The trail climbs and drops between ridges and lakes before reaching camp near Simkota lake, at around 4,110 meters, the highest and coldest night of the trek. Around 11 km and five hours. The air is noticeably thinner here, so take the afternoon slowly and drink plenty of water.

A gradual climb to start, over the Phume La at around 4,210 meters, the highest point of the trek. On a clear morning the views stretch north across the whole Himalaya to Gangkar Puensum, at 7,570 meters the highest mountain in Bhutan and the highest unclimbed peak in the world.

The trail then descends through juniper and rhododendron to camp near Phajoding, a cluster of monasteries and retreat houses high above Thimphu, founded in the 13th century, where young monks study and older ones live in retreat. Around 10 km and four hours.

The last morning on foot is downhill all the way, through blue pine forest hung with prayer flags, to the edge of Thimphu, the capital, in around three hours and 5 km. Your vehicle meets you at the bottom of the trail.

After lunch in town and a hot shower at the hotel, the afternoon is spent in the city: the Textile Museum, which shows the weaving traditions you have seen in the villages, the Folk Heritage Museum, a restored farmhouse showing rural life, and the handicrafts emporium for gifts to take home. The evening is free in Thimphu.

A morning in Thimphu: the Memorial Chorten, built in 1974 in memory of the third king and busy all day with people walking around it and spinning its prayer wheels, Changangkha Lhakhang, a 12th-century temple above the town, the viewpoint at Sangaygang over the whole valley, and the Zilukha nunnery, home to a community of nuns.

After lunch in town, the drive of around an hour and a half back to Paro, over the confluence of the Paro and Thimphu rivers at Chuzom, where three stupas in different styles mark the meeting. A farewell dinner in the evening.

After breakfast, your guide takes you to Paro airport, a short drive down the valley, and helps with check-in before you say goodbye.

The take-off from Paro is as dramatic as the landing, banking between the mountains as the plane climbs out of the valley, so ask for a window seat if you can. On a clear morning there is one last look at the peaks you walked beneath. The departure hall has a small gallery of work by Bhutanese artists, a bookstore and a coffee shop if you have time to spare.